Crossing the Simpson Desert by motorbike
Part 4 – Poeppel Corner to Big Red and Birdsville
With Mark Battersby
I woke up early anticipating sunrise over the clay pan and it did not disappoint. I had mixed thoughts about today, some said it was easier days due to the greater distance between the dunes, others said that the dunes were taller, softer and more challenging. more awake.
We still face Big Red, the highest dune our final obstacle. Only 146 km to Birdsville, which is just over 100 km until we pass Simpson.
I don’t mean to spoil the ending, but if yesterday was the most challenging ride I’ve ever done, today is going to be the most fun and exciting day I’ve ever ridden off-road.
The scene changed greatly as we continued north to the end of the clay pan before turning east onto QAA Road. The dunes began to increase in size, as well as running towards the top. Now I find myself hitting the base in the third high in the rev range and only shifting down to the second near the top. I was also able to sneak into fourth gear in a straight line and spend more time in the chair, which my ankle greatly appreciated.
The access ramps now appear wider with recently increased traffic signs making the climb more difficult. I found myself having to do it earlier with increased speed and sometimes hitting sandbanks and mounds created by the 4WD much faster than I could have done. There is also a change to the descending side of the dunes.
Previously these tires were only shredded by 4WD tires that were struggling to gain traction, now they are littered with dozens of camel tracks. I know what you’re thinking, but in soft sand, camels still leave some deep holes that need to be navigated with care like the tracks of a wheel.
As my confidence increased, I was able to lift each dune at a speed just enough to stay on the pin and power down the dunes. This has been the biggest change in my riding journey since leaving Dalhousie Springs and the difference it has made is a game changer.
Looking back on a day, I still can’t decide if my riding has improved or the terrain is less challenging, but I loved the ride and I didn’t want it to end for the first time.
I find myself looking at the GPS counting down how many miles it has to Birdsville. I knew that Big Red, signaling the end of Simpson, was forty kilometers west of Birdsville so I continued to subtract that number from my number.
I remember saying to myself, ‘What, only seventy kilometers to Birdsville, which means only thirty until I pass Simpson.’
I find my speed has increased due to the flat sections between the dunes, and I am hitting the dunes at a higher speed. I have a few close calls on steeper dunes but no difference so far.
There has been talk at Mt Dare that Eyre Creek is flooded, which means there could be a detour sixty kilometers north along the Eyre Creek bypass. The floodwaters had not yet come, and the Eyre creek was dry and barren with deep, sharp washes. On WR this is the fun part and I regret not slowing down and taking more pictures here.
It’s always a challenge when it comes to adventure riding, you love riding through the tracks and enjoying the terrain, but it’s also great to stop and capture the moments. I guess it just means I’ll have to come back.
I looked down at the GPS and it signaled just over forty kilometers from Birdsville. I feel the combination of racing to the finish line to know I’ve completed the challenge, but I also don’t want this lifelong adventure to end.
One obstacle remains, Big Red. I’ve watched countless videos of motorbikes charging easily and other bikes needing multiple tries and others even looking for an alternative route.
As I climbed one of the larger dunes, I saw a wide open plain with the largest dune in the distance. As I approached, I noticed four well-used alternate rails leading to the top – I finally made it to Big Red. At this point, the 4WD is about twenty minutes behind me, and I use this time to ride to base and check out my various options. There were 4 disabled people and those gathered at the top watching the people approaching from the west, sure to enjoy the various failed attempts.
The far right approach seems the most gentle, however it has a sharp left turn near the top that is hidden from view. I still think this is my best option. I decided to wait 4WD and celebrate this important moment with a delicious drink from the fridge.
Mick in the Amarok was keen for a first try and also chose far right as his preferred option. Amarok disappeared from view after easily climbing the first incline, where the track twisted towards the top. As Norri and I started to celebrate his achievement, we saw Amarok start to head back down the dunes and he told us the top was pretty loose and steep.
Both 4WDs ended up in the Big Red tops trying out various songs, and I found myself wondering what approach to take. I settled on the leftmost side, although it was the steepest, it was also the straightest meaning no need to change direction.
Norri positioned her drone to capture the moment when I turned around to run five hundred meters farther than I really needed to. I launch the GoPro kit and my heart goes to Big Red. Second gear, third gear and then fourth gear – this is the fastest I’ve ever reached sand in my life.
Just like when I hit the incline, I move down to third place to make sure I have the number of revolutions at my disposal when the sand starts to drain all of my momentum. I stick to and trust in physics, a moving object wants to stay in motion, when the little WR skips and jumps off the rails and keeps climbing.
That’s when I made the mistake that robs me of my success; I can’t shift into second gear and the playback shows when the car finally stops and lays down to rest, my hand can literally reach out and touch the top of the car.
The second attempt was exactly the same as the first, except that I switched down the second time and easily paddled past the soft edge of the Big Red. YES!!! I did it, I got to the top of Big Red and crossed the Simpson Desert.
The celebration kicks off with videos, photos, and even some drone footage. The feeling of accomplishment and fun is incredible. I never thought I had the skill or ability to traverse more than 400 kilometers of sand and climb 1100 dunes.
In a way, three days across the desert reminded me of the organization I’m raising awareness about, Gotcha4Life. At the end of the first day, I felt low, defeated, and full of doubt. With the help and support of my friends, I regrouped on the second day, took a fresh look at the situation and although it was more difficult I fought through it. Day three was full of fun and excitement as I overcame my fears and completed the challenge.
After an hour of celebration atop Big Red, we decided the Birdsville Pub would call our names. We headed down the east side of Big Red and headed towards the pub. The road was the exact opposite of what we had just finished with the asphalt guiding us most of the way.
We were greeted at the pub by some of the riders who had just completed their crossing and we shared stories of our adventures. As a reminder of the dangers of the desert, we are told of two riders who had been brought on board the previous two days.
After enjoying a few local beers, we went to the caravan park to make a reservation and try their showers. Upon check-in, we received a stern warning, “Don’t camp near the river, the water will flood in the next few days.”
This is cause for concern, if the Diamantina River floods, it will cut Birdsville Road, meaning no way home. We decided to set up camp, enjoy our first shower in a week, and head back to the pub for a meal at the counter.
Stay tuned for Part 5!
You can check Full series Long Way to Wauchope Rally here (link).
Also check Endometriosis Australia and Gotcha4Life if you are interested.
