As we sit in the crimson color of Colorado Sunset over the Front Range, the stone walls of the iconic Red Rocks Amphitheater echo familiar lyrics. David Crosby’s face has as many crevices as the surrounding sandstone spiers, but his voice shows no evidence of October’s age. When he was joined on stage by Jason Isbell for an incredible version of “Wooden Ships,” the final lines of which spark anticipation for the next day’s ride: And it’s a warm southerly wind on my shoulder / Guess I’ll set a route and go.
The next morning, that course was really set. Our route will be to explore figure 8 on the eastern slopes of the Rockies, next to the Denver urban corridor. When we pack the boxes above Yamaha Super Tenéré With water and a few layers of extra clothing, that fresh breeze rustled leaves in the trees surrounding our vacation rental in Golden. Thumbs up, the large Twin-Twin quickly transitions to a smooth idle. I switched gears, and my wife, Cheryl, and I left.
GOLDEN TO ESTES PARK
Figure-8 routes have always intrigued me. It can go back to my youth watching crazy racing style at the state fair. Anyway, I mapped a bus leaving Golden to the northwest and traced that general direction to Estes Park, the northernmost point of our planned trip. The return route will pass through various roads that intersect that road on the way back south.
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View Front Range Ride Route Figure-8 on REVER
After a bit of GPS-assisted navigation out of the Golden, Coal Creek Canyon Road (Highway 72) is a comfortable warm-up. The wide sweeper cuts through treeless grasslands at lower elevations, and with increasing altitude the vegetation gradually increases. Soon, it became clear that this was really going to be a trip in the mountains. Near the tiny community of Pinecliffe, increasingly tight corners curl into a series of beautiful hairpins that line the cliffs at 8,000 feet. The fun has really begun.
We approached Nederland, which marked the intersection of our figure-8 route. The quaint town lies west of Boulder and is located near the picturesque Barker Meadow Reservoir. After rolling through town, we continued our hike north on the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Walk (State Route 72). Peak to Peak is a popular ride in the Front Ranges of the Rocky Mountains, considered one of the most scenic in the state.
Not even ten miles into this foot, I spotted something moving in the woods to my right. An elk was standing in the middle of a small pond drinking wine. As we parked the Yamaha and went for a walk to get a better position, the creature raised its wide, dripping snout and looked at us disinterestedly. I don’t blame her. After more motorists discovered what we were watching, the shoulder became an impromptu parking lot. It’s time to go out.
Back on the bike, we continued the winding Peak to Peak road towards Estes Park. Intermittent trouble met us along the way. There were patches of very wet runways, indicating that we were lucky to get there after only a few downpours. It is clear that despite the harsh winters in this area, the road conditions are smooth and stable.
The Scenic path from Peak to Peak lives up to its majestic reputation, and every mile is a joy. The top of the mountain crags on the horizon near and far. The long morning of riding left us unprepared for lunch as we rolled out onto the outskirts of Estes Park, the gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park and bustling with tourist activity.
We pulled into the first diner we saw. After our cake melted, the owner stopped by to chat. When we told him about seeing the moose, he was really impressed. He said we were in the middle of an elk race, so seeing those head-butting giants wouldn’t be unusual. However, he says people who have lived in the area for many years have yet to see elk. We feel uniquely lucky.
After finishing lunch, we stopped briefly at the Stanley Hotel, a stately 140-room Colonial Renaissance hotel built in 1909. This was the inspiration for the Overlook Hotel in the novel. 1977 by Stephen King. The Shining and the 1980 film, and it was used as a filming location for the 1997 miniseries. Stanley was also the setting for the fictional Danbury Hotel in the 1994 film. Dumb and Dumber. You can stay in the hotel, visit for sightseeing or pick up a variety of “REDRUM” souvenirs from the gift shop.
We could have spent the rest of the day in Stanley’s historic lounge, which features an elegantly carved wood bar, pressed tin ceilings and an impressive selection of whiskeys. But the road is calling, and it’s time to finish our figure-8.
ESTES PARK TO BLACK HAWK
We rolled southeast out of Estes Park past several golf courses and verdant hills. US 36th Street has proven to be another great motorway in the Front Strip. Gray granite outcrops are covered with a variety of conifers along the winding road. It was an enjoyable ride with no traffic, and thankfully the threat of rain had eased.
In the town of Lyons, US 36 begins the southern curve back to the intersection of our figure-8. We returned to grasslands and rolling hills for a few scenic miles, and then headed straight on its southerly path toward Boulder. Of course, the closer you get to the city, the heavier the traffic becomes. When Route 36 turned into Highway 7, we were completely in the suburbs of Boulder.
When we turned west onto Boulder Canyon Drive (State Route 119), we were ready to climb back into the foothills of the Rockies. When a motorcyclist hears the word “canyon” in the street name, it’s like music to the ears. Once again, Front Range did not disappoint. The road passed through tunnels, beside tree-lined rivers, and beneath gray rock formations on the route to the west. It was a truly breathtaking motorbike ride.
As we approached the now-familiar town of Nederland, we rolled along the banks of the Barker Meadow Reservoir that we previously saw in the distance in the first half of figure-8. South of Nederland, Route 119 takes a decisive turn south to reach our next planned stop. In our pre-ride map, we discovered a pair of historic gold mining towns that have since undergone a transformation into gambling destinations.
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We were greeted in the Central City by its historic buildings and narrow streets. The restored restaurants, shops and hotels feature brick architecture. We saw ancient and colorful history, but not gambling, and that was fine with us. We stopped at a brasserie on the main street of town and chatted happily with the bartender. The cheerful bar owner rewarded us with a few painfully corny jokes before answering our numerous questions about the town.
The trove of local knowledge tells us that the town of Central City and its close neighbor Black Hawk were the hotbeds of the Gold Rush following a major local gold rush in 1859. Then in the 1800s, the towns were connected to Denver by rail, and the boom continued. However, as it is said, all good things must come to an end, and both towns declined with the decline of mineral resources in the 1900s.
After a few more funny stories, the passerby brought us to the current state of the area. In the early 1990s, Colorado adopted the state-limited bet game, and small towns began to implement the idea. The towns have become the state’s gambling hub, he said, accounting for nearly 90% of Colorado’s gaming revenue. Noticing our strange looks after scanning small poker machines and one-armed bandits in a pub, he laughed and said, “Wait until you ride south.”
The cheerful joker is the prophet. As we leave the quaint atmosphere of the Central City, we skim through a bit of history before it becomes apparent. Casinos and high-rise hotels sprung up like ghosts as we rounded a corner. The dichotomy that has been created in this area emerges most clearly in the town of Black Hawk. Attached to the 150-year-old brick buildings are massive constructions, designed to express the modern man’s desire to make quick money. The irony is all the more obvious. Gone are the starry-eyed miners, only to be replaced by gamblers with glass eyes.
We made our way out of the Rocky Mountain “Vegas” and back to our starting point. The last part of the trip was a great mix of everything we went through on the figure 8 trip into the Front Range. The road is smooth and well maintained, and the scenery is breathtaking. We went from the jungle, to the grasslands, to the bustle of Golden.
While not a full exploration of the Colorado Rockies, our tour is a nice overview of the area’s roads and ecosystems. Fluctuating 40 degrees and varying amounts of rain during the ride made it clear that gear selection and preparedness are crucial in the Rockies. Due to the altitude this is purely a late spring to early fall trip. That said, we’d love to return in full spring or fall foliage to explore the range ahead further.
