I arrived in Duluth, Minnesota, at midnight, greeted by a pure wind blowing from Lake Superior, the largest of the Great Lakes. The West had been burning for weeks when I left California two days earlier, and the smoke from those great fires had gathered, unceasingly, across the Plains to form a thick, murky blanket. My eyes and throat are still burning as I hobble, get whipped in the butt, from BMW R 1200 GS to my waiting hotel room.
Scan the QR code to see the route on REVER or click here
I just started my 6 week trip and my first official stop is a visit Aerostich to catch up with my old friend Andy Goldfine. Andy and I go back to the mid 80’s when we started in the motorcycle industry, he was the founder of Aerostich and I was an editorial associate at Rider. I packed my first Roadcrack the day after we met, and since then have appreciated no gear – or business friendships – more.
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Listen to our interview with Andy Goldfine on the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast
Duluth has always captivated me with its terraced streets and historic port town vibe. Spending a day cycling here is a pleasure. I can hang out at Aerostich and see the clothes being cut and sewn. Some call it a factory, but it’s more of a workshop, where skilled technicians make equestrian apparel.
After enjoying a classic cyclist breakfast the next morning at Duluth Grill with Andy and “smartest riding buddy” John Grinsel, an 80-year-old character who has ridden 20,000 miles Every year with a pipe in my mouth and a little dog named Moose poking out of its top box, I return to the GS’ saddle riding north around the edge of the world’s largest freshwater lake.
Biggest Lake
Living more like an inland sea than a lake, Superior is huge, containing 10% of the world’s fresh surface water. It and the other Great Lakes to the east are so dynamic that they create their own weather patterns. I’m walking through a layer of Scotch fog today, I’m not sure I can blame the lake, and it’s giving my fingers a workout.
I’m riding a loaner R 1200 GS Rallye that I’ve had for seven months. I will never have enough GS bikes and for over three decades I have used them to explore five continents. Having served as one of BMW’s flagship models for four decades, the “big” GS is legally the first truly versatile touring bike, but what I love most is the way it looks. The Twin talking boxer feels like an old friend every time I fire one. upward. It’s a pleasant bike to take anywhere, including roads like Minnesota’s scenic Highway 61 along the North Shore.
When I reached the Grand Marais, it was clear that it was storming northward, and I retreated down the highway, stopping at the famous Betty’s Pies for a slice and a coffee. I love this place, and if I wasn’t biking, in the rain, I’d take a whole 5 Layer Chocolate Cake to go.
Early the next morning, the sun was out and I was in Wisconsin exploring the bottom edge of Superior. While I traveled to the top of the lake a few years ago, the southern part is a mystery. I steered the GS up Wisconsin’s Lake Superior Scenic Byway, Highway 13, which links fishing villages with waterfalls to sandy beaches and orchards.
The path to the rocks has pictures
I wanted to shoot from Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula to Copper Harbor on US 41st Street, and not just because the road looks great on the map. I heard there are monks who bake delicious treats and sell preserves they make from local fruits at The Jampot bakery. But I’m short on time and even shorter on tyres. The Continental TKC80s I’ve picked up in the last seven months have more than 6,500 miles on them and my replacements are waiting at a dealership 700 miles away, which means limited side trips .
So I went from Ashland, Wisconsin, straight to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore on the recommended County Road H-58 ride. And wow, what a sweet path. I heard it was even more enjoyable to ride before it was fully paved in 2010, but today 69 miles of smooth, shaded corners and winding streams run like a song. And for the other senses? The beautiful lake here is surrounded by colorful sandstone cliffs and unspoiled sandy coves.
When you’re adventure biking, another thing you’ll love about Michigan is the more than 3,100 miles of off-road trails, proudly documented and promoted on the state government website and on Pure Michigan , a site sponsored by Michigan’s leading economic development agency. Civilize how these Midwestern states celebrate their off-road opportunities instead of destroying them.
But you hardly need a map to find a fascinating two-way street here, which is why I didn’t have a good time on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, but I ended up at the famous Mackinac Bridge, prepare to ride its swaying five miles to the Lower Peninsula. That’s right, the Big Mac is one of the longest suspension bridges in the world and it’s built to sway (apparently, up to 35 feet at its center span), and on a windy day you can feel it, like I did when I passed it years ago on a Harley Ultra Glide Classic.
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Especially in Michigan
But today it was just light winds, and tiptoeing across the impressive bridge over the GS was a joy. I don’t have time to stop in touristy Mackinaw City because I want to take some of the little trails I missed on my previous trip, starting with the M-119 from Cross Village to Harbor Springs, aka called Tunnel of Trees.
I approach from the north, stopping at the historic Polish-themed Legs Inn in Cross Village, where you can spend hours looking at all the details of the wood and stonework, or if you’re hungry, enjoy Try some kielbasa and pierogi. The famous 20-mile stretch of M-119 that begins here is narrow, curvy and truly a tunnel of foliage, and I’m sure its beauty will take your breath away in the fall, but it takes points for being a road for high-end motorbikes. 35 mph speed limit and lots of deer and driveways. Still, those 137 corners are a lovely way to spend time.
After a night in Petoskey, I headed to Traverse City and the M-22. If there’s one thing that’s undeniable about these Midwestern states, especially their more rural areas, it’s how kind the people really are. Everywhere you go. The M-22 was recommended to me by a new friend, and I spent some time exploring Suttons Bay, Northport, and the beautiful lakes of the Leelanau Peninsula, all of which are miniatures beside Lake Michigan.
At Glen Arbor, I enjoyed the original Cherry Republic homemade cherry ice cream and put a jar of cherry salsa in my saddlebag for later. I did not participate in the spitting hole at the facility’s Olympic-sized cherry spitting pit (world record 93 feet, 6.5 inches).
In addition to stunning lake views and sprawling farmland, this part of Michigan also has local wines to taste, dunes to explore, and apples to pick. The longer I use the M-22, the more I realize that it’s not just the way to the people of this area, the M-22 represents a way of life. In fact, signs on the M-22 highway have been stolen so often – 90 signs in three years – Michigan DOT has removed the M on some signs instead so they only show the number 22 If you miss your chance to look for a sign, there are plenty of places along the highway where you can buy fakes, as well as high-end M-22 clothing and souvenirs.
And I understand. There’s something about this area (the people? The cold feeling? The scenery?) that makes you just want to go around and explore every nook and cranny. Sadly, I didn’t have time or walk to explore more, and headed east from Manistee to Bay City, passing some of the basic chain motels and wishing I was back in my tent on Lake side. In the morning, I got off I-75 to get the GS serviced and shopped at BMW Motorcycles of Southeast Michigan. Again, the most beautiful people.
Over the next five weeks, I’ll be traveling through 13 other states, many of which are on motorcyclists’ bucket lists. And I will continue to think about this Great Lake area and its empty streets, slow pace and kind locals. If you’ve ever cycled there, you know. If you haven’t already, go. I will be right behind you.
