Lifestyle

An insider’s guide to eating your way in Italy


Ernest Hemingway may have called Paris a portable party, but descriptive expression Italy to a tee. The country has an amazing variety of regional cuisines and places where you can enjoy them.

As an American based in Roman, I consider my mission in life to eat all of Italy. I’ve traveled from the Dolomites in the north to Sicily in the south, dining on classic pasta dishes in old fashioned Rome eateries, brioche dotted with almond granita in Sicily and the freshest seafood in Capri at restaurants. Stylish beach club.

Advice for the wise: Unless you want to take street food away, reservations are essential in Italy. Some restaurants use an online reservation system, but many do not, so you’ll have to call or ask the concierge at your hotel to make a reservation for you. Trust me – it’s worth it.

Wherever you travel in Italy, you’ll find plenty of places to dine. To help you narrow down your options, here are some of my favorite insiders.

Roman

Outdoor dining in Piazza Navona, Rome. GARY YEOWELL/GETTY PICTURE

If you’re visiting Italy, it’s likely you’ll spend at least a couple of days in Rome – as you should. The Eternal City is not only filled with remarkable ancient ruins, incredible museums, and charming cobblestone streets; it is also a foodie paradise, where culinary offerings range from mouthwatering street food to Michelin-starred restaurants.

At most traditional Roman Italian restaurants, the menu will feature four classic pasta dishes – carbonara, amatriciana, pasta alla gricia and cacio e pepe – but that doesn’t mean all dishes are equally delicious. .

Salumeria Roscioli — snack shop and restaurant that is part of a small family-run empire that includes a bakery, cafe, bar and a brand new location in New York City – arguably the most famous. Tables are reserved a month in advance, but you can often find availability in less time at Rimessa Roscioli, a pub serving a similar menu.

Personally, I also like the family-run restaurant Da Enzo al 29 in Trastevere and La Matriciana dal 1870, which is credited with introducing bucatini all’amatriciana to Rome.

However, the hottest new restaurants have just opened in two of them The city’s buzziest new hotel. In June, the Hotel Bulgari Rome opened and the restaurant of the same name, hailed by Michelin chef Niko Romito became an instant hit. In addition, the launch of Rome version brought in a great new restaurant called Anima run by Paola Colucci, whose restaurant Pianostrada is a favorite with locals.

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Florence

A coffee shop in Tuscany. GARY YEOWELL/THE POINT

Another perennial favorite, Florence seems to be enjoying a new vibrancy.

In a city where tradition often trumps innovation, one of today’s hottest attractions is the Angel Roofbar & Dining at Hotel Calimala, which offers stunning views of the city’s terracotta rooftops. You’ll need to book in advance to sample classic Italian alternatives. Expect dishes like grilled cauliflower with Israeli flavors like spicy tahini and harissa.

La Ménagère is another great place to experience modern Florentine cuisine. At the front, there is a flower shop and a small shop, as well as a casual cafe, while in the back, the candlelit dining room has a sophisticated atmosphere, perfect for a romantic dinner.

Longing for a classic bistecca alla Fiorentina? The place to get this regional staple is Regina Bistecca, which serves the finest Chianina beef in a charming space that was once an antique bookshop.

Amalfis Coast

Breakfast with a view in Positano. ANDREA COMI/THE POINTS

Enough about cities. In Italy, summer is best enjoyed at sea.

If you’re headed to the great Italian seaside destination – Amalfis Coast — you should make reservations at restaurants, especially if you want to dine at the most coveted locations. Many of the most requested dining tables can be found at top luxury hotels, including La Sponda at Le Sirenuse Positano and Rossellinis Restaurant at Palazzo Avino, which has a Michelin star.

Michelin stars tend to inspire the image of a classy restaurant with white tablecloths and staff wearing coats. However, one of the best Michelin-starred meals I’ve ever eaten was at Il Riccio in Anacapri, which feels like a bit of a buzzy beach club with turquoise tables overlooking the ocean. . Slurp oysters and spaghetti with sea urchin, but be sure to save room for dessert — there’s an entire dessert room filled with cakes, cookies and pastries like the classic chocolate and almond torta caprese .

The big Capri news earlier this year was the highly anticipated opening of Hotel La Palma, a member of the luxurious Oetker Collection. Its restaurant, Gennaro’s, is the place to see and be seen this season. It also has a luxury beach club called Da Gioia by La Palma in Marina Piccola. Both restaurants are run by award-winning chef Gennaro Esposito.

This spring, the luxury Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel also opened a fine-dining restaurant run by a promising young chef. In the evening, the casual restaurant turns into the pizzeria of Gino Sorbillo, king of the Neapolitan pizza dynasty run by a family.

Puglia

The Puglia town of Locorotondo is surrounded by vineyards. VALERIOMEI/GETTY PICTURE

The Amalfi Coast and Capri have long been hotspots for jet lovers. However, the secret has been revealed about Puglia. Italy’s heel is known for its unspoiled beaches. It is also the country’s largest producer of olive oil and where you can find the best burrata.

If it’s on your list, you should sample olive oil and visit one of the region’s many cheese farms, such as Agriturismo Aglio Piccolo.

Also, be sure to visit a historic masseria – old farms dot the countryside. Many of them have been converted into rustic restaurants like Masseria Le Stanzíe. You’ll even find some of the luxury hotels, such as the Masseria Torre Maizza, operated by Rocco Forte Hotels.

For a fine dining experience, head to Due Camini, the Michelin-starred restaurant in Borgo Egnazia, a pioneer member of the World’s Top Hotels that put Puglia on the map.

Sicilian

Granita Sicilia, warm brioche and views of Mount Etna. PICTURES SICULODOC/GETTY

Of course, no food guide across Italy would be complete without a section on Sicily. The largest island in the Mediterranean conjures dreams of arancini, eggplant parmigiana, cannoli and gelato.

Sicily produces the most prized pistachios and almonds in Italy, both of which are used to create two of the most flavorful granitas, frozen sweets that the Sicilian eat from morning to night.

The traditional Sicilian breakfast is brioche dipped in almond granita with some espresso poured on top. Thanks to “Chef’s Table” enabled, Caffè Sicilia in Noto is probably the most popular place to buy it. However, you can find the popular dish everywhere, from luxury hotels to small food carts parked by the beach. (The best lemon granita I’ve ever had was from a truck parked near the beach in Noto.)

When in Sicily, eat all street food. Just walking through the bustling markets in cities like Palermo and Syracuse is all you need, with street vendors hawking their wares and smoke billowing as chefs prepare delicious dishes. local.

In addition to arancini (baseball-sized fried rice found all over Sicily), you must try panelle (flat fried chickpeas), sarde a beccafico (sardines with raisins, breadcrumbs and pine nuts) and pane cunzatu (sandwich). with anchovies, pecorino, oregano and tomatoes).

Also, eat all Seafood, especially the red shrimp from Mazara del Vallo, is famously delicious. For an epic seafood feast, splurge on lunch at Anciovi, the luxury poolside restaurant at the Palace of San Domenico, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel, where the second season of the series takes place. “White Lotus” was filmed.

Planning an Italy trip? Start with these stories:

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