Johnny Cash sang about fire, murder, heartbreak, and sin, and I think he’ll appreciate the symbolism of this ride, given its route. Northeast Las Vegas is one of the most beautiful state parks in the Southwest. An added bonus for motorcyclists is the park’s paths that cut through the crimson landscape like slithering black mambas. A ride through Valley of Fire State Park and Lake Mead National Recreation Area makes for a great motorized respite from the neon bustle of Vegas.
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The Las Vegas Strip, with its massive themed casinos, sidewalk pitches and congestion, is not my cup of tea. That’s why my starting point for this trip is Fremont Street. While still over the top, the area gives the feel of an older, more authentic version of Vegas.
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The night before my trip, I watched a backing band play classic rock tunes under the lights and video canopy that stretched across Fremont and enjoyed a variety of street performers. The next day, I put a few bottles of water and lunch in the saddlebag of my BMW R 1200 GS and hit the road.
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Fremont Street is just north of the traffic and congestion of the Strip, so it’s much more convenient to get out of the city than if I chose to stay at one of the big casinos. On my way out of town, I passed the Mob Museum and the Neon Museum – Vegas-themed tributes that had been added to my post-trip entertainment schedule.
The journey northeast on the Las Vegas Freeway (Interstate 15) is a nice warm-up to this roundabout. Deep colors and expansive desert views as I climb out of the neon valley. There are a few cotton balls floating in the mid-morning Nevada sky that are dark blue. The horizon intersecting with the sky was as clear and sharp as I had ever seen it.
After a 30-mile freeway drive, I turned the GS east onto the Valley of Fire Highway. The two-lane asphalt road begins as a gentle and undulating bend up the gray rocky mountains that were part of the striking line I enjoyed just a few miles ago. However, the monochromatic gray soon gave way to splashes of vibrant crimson. Thinking about the name of Valley of Fire State ParkI can’t help but imagine those red spots as sparks that flared up from the embers carried by the wind of an approaching wildfire.
My first stop in the park was at the aptly named Beehive. There is little doubt about what all the buzz is about. Worthy puns aside, The Honeycomb is a breathtaking object lesson in the artistic creativity of erosion. The hive is a stratified tribute to the power of wind, water, and time.
When I reached the entrance to the park’s visitor center, I was completely engulfed in the symbolic flames of the Valley of Fire. I live near Sedona, Arizona, and I’ve driven many times through the red rocks of southern Utah, so I have a solid reference for the colors of red sandstone. Valley of Fire is something different. The terrain carries a deeper, more blood-like layer of rust in this area. It is gorgeous.
I bought a $10 park pass at a self-service kiosk and drove up Mouse’s Tank Road. The end of this scenic trek was a short hike on the White Domes Trail, where I enjoyed a glass of water and a snack and enjoyed the majesty.
I’m not usually a fan of back-and-forth routes; however, this ride, carved through the park’s curvaceous rock formations, is amazing in both directions. It’s only about 6 miles from the visitor center to the end of Mouse’s Tank Road, so the ride through the center of the park is short but beautiful.
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Back on the Valley of Fire Highway, I marveled at the beauty around me. The road follows the undulating, sinewy red rocks. I made my last stop at Elephant Rock and circled the trail in my Sidi boots. It’s well worth putting on those expensive kicks. Elephant Rock is one of the park’s other formations, a great sign of nature’s wonders.
If this were a full-day trip rather than an all-round trip, I would have stopped and hiked some of the park’s features, like the Arch Rock and Atlatl Rock with their petroglyphs. Native American. The park deserves to be explored more than I can give it.
Returning to the BMW, I reached the end of the park’s highway at its intersection with North Shore Road (Highway 167). The reference shore is the shore of Lake Mead. The nickname “coastline” is a misnomer. The unprecedented drought in the Southwest has pulled the reservoir to a record low, so I was pretty far from the lake. Although not a coastal hike, the trip in Lake Mead National Recreation Area is interesting and beautiful. I’ve returned to the fringe environment where red overhangs dot the gray landscape. This time the fire came behind me.
Farther west when I returned to Vegas, the calmer and quieter desert landscape returned. Cactus, desert palm and dwarf palm trees occasionally dot the horizon, and the last leg is relaxing as I make my way back from the Valley of Fire back to the Valley of Neon Lights. With the right gear options, this is a trip that can be done almost year round and I will definitely be back. From the Sin City to the Valley of Fire, it’s truly an amazing ride. The man in black will approve.
