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“I owe this city a lot,” said Sabato De Sarno, creative director of Gucci, as he chose the riverside Tate Modern gallery to showcase the Italian giant’s work. Yacht Collection 2025. Gucci returned to London in 2016, where the brand’s founder, Guccio Gucci, found his inspiration more than a century ago. “Discovering a creative direction is about putting yourself in a space that already exists and interpreting it through your eyes,” explains De Sarno. “We chose London for the Cruise show, knowing it was the right choice.”
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De Sarno’s vision for the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 collection is British with an Italian twist. Rigor, luxury, strength, and sophistication are interwoven throughout the collection, creating a dynamic interplay of ideas and aesthetics. Exploring this dichotomy, De Sarno says, “Fashion design is a means of research, exploration, interpretation,” De Sarno notes. “I like to take something we think we know and break its rules, taking it as far as possible without ever distorting it.”
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The collection features short coats crafted in gabardine with sharp precision, combined with a daisy motif. These motifs are reinterpreted with 3D laser-cut organza, hand-assembled and hand-shaped sequins, creating soft, organic movement on structured fabrics. Outerwear combines chiffon, drapery and lace with the solidity of tailored gabardine, while traditional English elements such as tartan and check are interpreted in a fresh way. Check is transformed into delicately embroidered beaded fringes, paying homage to English style while infusing the style with the boldness of Gucci’s Italian heritage.
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The collection features a horsebit detail on suede, paying homage to Gucci’s equestrian roots. The iconic lobster clasp is reimagined as a feminine pearl necklace, combining function with decoration and acting as a badge of belonging. Models are seen stepping out of their heels and into ballet flats and hiking boots, combining office wear with street style. Inspired by Italy in the early 1970s, the Gucci Blondie bag in leather or toile is a standout piece. Its iconic logo is encased in leather or enhanced with techniques from Gucci’s jewellery craft, combining preciousness with practicality. The collection emphasizes the importance of craftsmanship, with embroidery, tailoring and leatherwork that transcend cultural boundaries. “Craft and fashion can unify, transcend cultures – they help create a new form of universal language, a common human vocabulary,” De Sarno asserts.
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By weaving together personal experiences, historical inspiration and modern innovations, De Sarno created a collection that honored Gucci’s illustrious heritage and laid the foundation for the brand’s future. Furthermore, the brand signed a three-year deal with the gallery to promote Tate’s work among aspiring young people.
Here are some more pictures from the collection.
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