I should warn you: This Florida motorcycle ride doesn’t include tough turns or drastic changes in altitude. The Sunshine State is famous for its straight, flat roads, but here and there there are still small streets that offer equestrian entertainment of a different kind.
Jacksonville is the second largest city by area in the contiguous United States, so it is spread out into clusters of population densities. To escape the hustle and bustle, I head to a motorcyclist favorite, State Road 13, which runs nearly 50 miles along the east bank of the St. Johns flows north from Jacksonville south to the Spuds, a rural community that thrives on exactly what its name would suggest.
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On the day of my ride, I won the traffic lottery. I had the day off for Presidents Day. School is out, the less fortunate are at work, and my family is visiting the zoo, so I had a cool, sunny day to myself.
After filling the tank with high-octane coffee, I fired up my air-cooled Ducati Scrambler 1100, and its Italian rumble made me smile. I set off on a mid-morning departure with no particular rush, enjoying the German Twin torque while my companions sat locked in their steel cages.
Related: Review the first ride of the Ducati Scrambler 1100
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As I approach Greenbriar Road, I think about the history of this unremarkable stretch of road. Artist Amy Stump, originally from the area, once told me about the street’s history and its nickname, Ghost Light Road, summarized in Bill Delaney’s Jaxlore column in the magazine Jason:
“[T]He is a young motorcycle racer in the area where his father warned him about speeding on dirt roads. On one fateful day, the young man’s brother strung a rope across the Greenbriar. This prank could merely unmask the conceited racer if he followed his father’s advice, but unfortunately, he blew the engine and lost his head. His ghost then shines a spotlight on Greenbriar during a nightly vigil, either to search for his lost head or to warn others not to take such risks.
Alike The Legend of the Sleepy Valleythe story is made up, but why let the truth get in the way of a good story?
The Greenbriar Road ends at SR 13 near Switzerland (nothing like this country), and I head south to the town of Orangedale, passing under a large oak tree that casts a shadow on the road. The 17-mile stretch of SR 13 between Julington Creek and Wades Creek is designated the William Bartram Historic and Scenic Highway, named for the naturalist and botanist who documented plant species native plants, animals and people of the area in the late 1700s.
As I rolled along the well-kept two-lane road, I caught a glimpse of the St. Johns through the trees, and a few bends and roundabouts provided an opportunity to tilt the Ducati. There are many small parks for sightseeing stops, many with benches to enjoy river views and a taste of “Old Florida”.
As I approached Orangedale, I was enveloped by the faint smell of smoke from Woodpeckers Backyard BBQ, a local favorite. Amy Stump’s mural of angel wings encircling regional landmarks greeted me when I ordered brisket and corn datil. Luckily, I got there before the brisket was sold out, a pleasant experience for those who arrive late in the day. I carried my plate across the street to Shands Wharf and ate while watching the boats glide over the twinkling lights of St. Johns.
Continuing south on SR 13, I took a short ride on State Road 16 and crossed the Shands Bridge, passing fishermen, food carts, and farm vendors. After passing the shipyards full of masts jutting into the sky, I stopped at the Military Museum of North Florida, located at the former site of Naval Air Station Lee Field. With its main bunker-like building, heavy machinery and even a few military motorcycles from past battlefields, it serves as a vivid reminder of the region’s long military history.
Back on SR 13, I stopped at Trout Creek Memorial Park and the Marina, highlights of which include the Monument to Major General William W. Loring and swamp boat rentals for sightseeing or fishing. . While enjoying the awe-inspiring views of the creek, I imagined William Bartram recording observations and collecting samples at the same site hundreds of years ago.
Right on the way, I stopped at Buddy Boy’s Country Store, the best gas station on the route to fill up or enjoy the camaraderie of fellow travelers. With Adirondack chairs, general store supplies, and delicious country barbecue, this is a must stop if you’re in the area.
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On the road again, the beauty of my ride really revealed itself with its curvy paths winding through the trees with sweeping views of the river, pier, marina and park. Located between the affluent town of Picolata (once home to a Spanish fortress) and Tocoi, the SR 13 opens up, giving Ducati a leg up.
Once through Tocoi, I recommend stopping at Riverdale Park. With picnic tables, benches and well-kept public toilets, it’s a great place to relax and reflect. When the glassy waters of St. Johns gently patted the shore, I closed my eyes and immersed myself in my surroundings.
SR 13 ends at the intersection with State Road 207 near Spuds. I had to make a decision: head east towards the coast to towns like St. Augustine, Palm Coast and Daytona Beach, or cross the river and head up the west bank of St. Johns. Eager to get home in time to enjoy dinner with my family and listen to the adventures of my 6-year-old son and his friends at the zoo, I returned home on my way, enjoying the road. wide open and landscape in the opposite direction. . The beauty of this route is that it is very interesting or it can be combined with other beautiful roads nearby. One thing’s for sure: It’s the speed change I’m looking for.
