Vardzia, Georgia (CNN) – From the 3,000-year-old Uplistikhe to the 6th-century David Gareja Monastery and the long-forgotten dwellings of Samshvilde, all of Georgia’s cave sites are dramatic.
But no one was as dominant as Vardzia.
Dotted across the slopes of the Erusheti, looming over a lush valley punctuated by the Kura River, Vardzia is Georgia’s most remarkable cave city.
In its day, the ledge consisted of 6,000 rooms spread over 19 floors, including 25 cellars, a nunnery, 15 chapels and a pharmacy, all combined to form a city and Vibrant medieval monastery.
Secret escape tunnels, confusing dead ends
First conceived and built as a fortress in the 12th century during the reign of King Giorgi III, it was his daughter who really brought it to fruition. Under her watchful eye, a series of intricate caves and rooms had been dug deep into Erusheti’s stomach, among them a secret escape tunnel and a row of dead-end houses to confuse enemies.
Over the years, it rapidly evolved from a modest fortress into a vast monastery, cultural center and offensive stronghold. Vardzia is home to about 2,000 monks, home to tens of thousands of residents, and thanks to its fertile terraces and complex irrigation system, a former self-sustaining city is even a thing. exciting.
At the top of them all is Tamar the Great, a legendary king so fierce and powerful that she earned the title of king – Tamar Mepe. During her nearly 30-year reign – twice married and no few women – Georgia flourished politically and territorially, her rule stretching across the Greater Caucasus and descending southwards between Ganja and Erzurum today.
Vardzia was once home to 2,000 monks. About 500 caves remain.
Melanie Hamilton
Literature and the arts flourished like never before, giving way to some of Georgia’s greatest figures. In particular, Shota Rustaveli, a medieval poet whose unrequited love for Tamar and his epic poem “Knight in the Panther’s Skin” cemented his place in history and earned him an avenue in most cities in the country.
However, Vardzia’s success was short-lived. In 1283, an earthquake shook the area, destroying more than 70% of the city and destroying the outer wall in an avalanche of biblical proportions. Without a solid defense, most of Vardzia packed up and left, only the steadfast advisers remained.
The monastic community lasted for another 300 years until further raids wiped them out.
More than 800 years after the reign of King Tamar, a handful of monks still head to Vardzia, having returned after the fall of the Soviet Union.
Some 500 caves still remain, including an apothecary with its carefully carved stand still intact and cellars with qvevris (ancient brewing pots) still laid below as if time had passed. pass.
Further into the mountains is a maze of unspoiled tunnels – some more than 600 feet long – that connect them all together in an ancient web.
A former cafeteria inside Vardzia.
Melanie Hamitlon
Even the dining room has worn down with time with its stone sculptured benches and fireplace for grilling dominating.
The most distinctive structure you’ll come across is the massive bell tower that juts out from the top of a rock shelf. It still retains most of its original beauty, although you will notice a very important part lost in a Mongol raid – the bell.
The most impressive is the Dormition Church with its double dome, hanging bells carved invisible into the face of the mountain. Inside are spectacular weathered frescoes, including one of the four remaining of King Tamar.
Visitors will want to hunt for the Tears of Queen Tamar, a natural spring hidden deep in the tunnels, where you’ll find a pool seemingly filled with water pouring – or crying – from the rocks above. above it.
Outside of Vardzia
The surrounding environment is also quite favorable. Opposite Vardzia is the Vardzia Cavetown Viewpoint. As the name suggests, this is a great stop to enjoy it all from afar.
Then there’s the lesser known Vanis Kvabebi (Vani Caves), a stone-carved monastery just a 10-minute drive from Vardzia.
Predating the site by several hundred years, Vanis Kvabebi is almost as impressive as Vardzia itself. Eager climbers can extend the site via a series of wooden ladders that lead to a small white-domed church and enjoy sweeping views of the valley.
Not far from Vanis Kvabebi is Tmogvi Fort. Perched high above the river, it was a colossal ruin made up of a long-forgotten citadel, stained frescoes and crumbling spiers.
On your way back to Tbilisi, you’ll come to a fork in the road marked by Fort Khertvisi – a medieval castle jutting out atop a rocky outcrop. Turning right will take you to Armenia and deeper into Samtskhe-Javakheti.
Khertvisi Fort is a medieval castle perched atop a rocky outcrop.
Melanie Hamilton
Vardzia is located in Samtskhe-Javakheti, an area in southern Georgia bordering Turkey and Armenia with a vibrant culture, landscape and cuisine. In the northern half of the area, you’ll find Borjomi – a jungle spa town famous for its hot springs and bottled mineral water that can remedy even the worst of hangovers, according to local legend. direction.
And then there’s Akhaltsikhe, a quiet little city dominated by Rabati Castle, a medieval fortress and symbol of diversity crowned with a mosque, a synagogue and an orthodox church.
Nestled in the southeast corner of the area, you’ll find Lake Paravani. The largest lake in Georgia, surrounded by volcanoes and wild, windswept terrain. On its southern coast is Poka, a village inhabited by the Nino Nino, a humble monastery associated with the legend of Saint Nino, a woman who brought Christianity to Georgia and became the second country in the world. The world converted after neighboring Armenia.
On the premises you will also find a small shop run by nuns who prepare handmade chocolates, traditional cheeses and even beer produced in qvevri.
The region is shaped by culinary traditions as well as cultural landmarks. Thanks to the influence of several cultures over the centuries, Samtskhe-Javakheti offers a multitude of delicious dishes.
Perched high on the hill from Akhaltsikhe is Andriatsminda, a small village where a few local families have kept the labor tradition of tenili, a cheese native to the region known for its angelic hair texture.
Believed to have survived the presence of French priests in the area, you’ll also find lokokina (snails) used as a juicy filling for khinkali (dumplings), or plated escargot.
Other delicacies include apokhti khinkali made with dried meat like goose, Meskhuri shoti (Meskhetian bread) and the region’s perennial favorite tatarberaki – delicate squares of boiled dough smothered in a rich, rich sauce of the region. garlic, onion, butter and yogurt.
Arrive there
Just over four hours’ drive from Tbilisi, a drive through Borjomi’s jungle and gilded Akhalstikhe fortress will bring you to Vardzia.
Choose one of the many eager drivers on Freedom Square, or get behind the wheel with a rental car. While there are plenty of drivers happy to do a day trip, the area is best explored for a couple of nights so you can really immerse yourself in it.
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