Crossing the Simpson Desert by motorbike
Part Two – Marree to Dalhousie
With Mark Battersby
We were greeted with a beautiful sunrise and even visited with a dingo for breakfast. He kept his distance and was no doubt just checking to see what Mick would prepare for us. We cleared our site immediately and turned left on the Oodnadatta Trail, towards William Creek.
Although the Oodnadatta Trail may be remote and desolate, it is not without attractions along the way. Two Cessna planes stood on their tails facing the sky as if ready to launch with the release of cables, not what you would expect to see here.
We met three bikes and a 4WD also crossing Simpson from west to east. I have to admit I felt a bit awkward with my tiny 250 cc bike when I glanced at the Husky 701, KTM 690 and KTM 1290. We’ll catch up with these guys later, and they have some stories to tell. tell!
We continued toward William Creek after making a short stop at the Lake Eyre lookout, passing a horse-drawn carriage, a Hyundai Excel and stopping at a flooded junction listening to hundreds of gulls. sea - and didn’t see a single chip.
William Creek was a welcome sight as my thirst levels were very high and about thirty minutes out of the saddle appreciated. Tour buses have introduced their ride as the heavy rain has eased and groups are gathering around the iconic pub.
A quick check of the bike revealed a stray rock had pierced my headlight, which was easily fixed with a strip of duct tape. I won’t be riding at night anyway so night vision is overrated.
A soft drink or two, a few photos and we continue to the next stop, Oodnadatta. It is 200 km to Oodnadatta, but WR just eats it like a bike and I feel more at home than on dirt roads. Excellent conditions with a rigidly packed base and thin top layer.
There are a few highlights throughout the process but they’re not really memorable moments, just enough to keep you entertained and make sure you’re paying attention.
We pulled up to Oodnadatta and the famous Pink Road House – so popular and photographed, I decided I didn’t really need to – okay, I forgot! Suddenly it hit me, something a little terrifying but also very liberating. This is the last time I get phone or internet within four to five days, depending on how it gets through.
In an age of Google all problems, emails on hand and seemingly delivered to the main frame, that was an uncomfortable realization at first. Norri and I both brought our drones for a pass and the recent firmware update means we can’t fly them without downloading and installing said updates …
So there we are, using what feels like dial-up modem speeds, playing with our drones and cursing the internet. Really? What else could I expect more than 1000 km from Adelaide on the Oodnadatta Trail?
With the download complete, we continued out of town in search of a quiet campsite. Less than thirty minutes out, Mick spotted a path to the left that led us to a perfect stretch of fine sand overlooking a dry creek bed. Fortunately, a stone fire pit was rebuilt for us, the locals are really interested in this way of doing it.
We were greeted by a spectacular sunset with no warning of the approaching weather. Now we are in the ignorant bliss of our love with warm flames, BBQ chicken and cold drinks. A day out is limited to a great evening, could it be better?
As the sun rose on the third day, my thoughts now turned towards the desert as I tried to imagine what I was there for. Sure, I’ve watched countless hours on YouTube, read dozens of Facebook posts, and of course they all conflict with each other.
This is not a criticism of the information, it depends on the skill level of the rider, the routes taken and the track conditions at the time. In short, I really don’t know what to expect.
Sunrise offers the perfect photo opportunity, but when I position the WR for the photo, it suddenly disappears. This is the last time we will see the sun for the next 36 hours. We regrouped and looked north and saw nothing but gray clouds in our direction of travel.
Mick and Norri finished cooking jaffles in the fire and a sense of urgency began to overtake us. The weather has been unpredictable for weeks and Queensland has suffered record rainfall, prompting Cooper Creek to spray floodwater towards Eyre Creek – potentially shutting down Simpson, which had happened just two weeks earlier.
It’s less than 200km from Mt Dare, the last chance to resupply before starting the border crossing. The conditions of the track changed rapidly and deteriorated compared to the conditions we enjoyed along the Oodnadatta Track.
Instead of a loosely covered layer of cobblestone, larger boulders are now scattered across the track, some large enough to grab your front wheel and move it without warning. Suddenly, cattle nets and deep trails were part of the track and short stretches of sand and mulch told me what to watch.
I found this part physically demanding, but also thoroughly enjoyable on WR as she seems to thrive on more difficult terrain. The landscape changes frequently with a variety that includes rocks, tree-lined areas and even a path across the water.
We arrived at Mt Dare in the early afternoon and to my surprise it took almost four hours to travel less than 200km. A sneak peek of my phone shows that Telstra hasn’t installed any towers recently and Facebook will have to wait.
If Oodnadatta realizes we’re leaving the phone reception, Mt Dare is a wake-up call that this is our last chance for fuel, food, water or any other supplies. any. In the end, I should have bought some Coke for my bottle of Bundy – a decision I will regret.
As the boys filled up the 4WD with gas, I started filling up the WR in the 14 liter Safari, 7.5 liter Rotopax, plastic balls, and 11 liter Giant Loop fuel tank. I was asked to allow between 32 and 35 liters for overtaking but decided to take more – especially since 4WD was carrying it for me.
We went into Mt Dare general store, gas station, pub, ranger station and souvenir shop. You could spend hours gazing at the iconic decor from the stout owners, the signs, the posters, the knickknacks collection left by previous travelers. I ordered the highly recommended beef burger washed down with our favorite drink. Next stop – Dalhousie Hot Springs and long-awaited guests to bathe in the hot springs.
Perhaps it was an attempt to lull me into a false sense of security, but the path towards Dalhousie seemed a bit easier than the Mt Dare road. It was with one major exception, a web of steeply sharp cattle that launched me and the WR to a height I didn’t feel comfortable with. Fortunately, the landing was safe, more due to luck than skill. Aside from this and the close encounter with a snake, it was an enjoyable trip to Dalhousie Springs.
Since leaving Mt Dare, we have traveled east to the desert, straight to the dark sky. We haven’t seen the sun all day and there’s little doubt that rain is headed our way, it’s just a question of when and how much.
We pulled into the campsite in a designated area around the streams. It’s a popular spot with dozens or more disabled people setting up camp and it’s an eerie feeling to hear the awning powered up, the air compressor, and the music playing.
Mick found a spot under a sunshade structure that would provide some protection if rain came. We set up chairs and tents in record time, changed into our bathing suits in the backcountry, and headed for the hot springs.
I hadn’t showered in three days so a Dalhousie bath was what I was looking forward to. Previous visitors have left a collection of pool noodles at the entrance to the stream, which has proven ideal for floating in 37-degree water. Flies are your constant companions in Dalhousie and the only time you get rid of them is when you’re completely submerged.
After wading through the hot springs for half an hour or so, our cravings kicked in and we headed back to camp for dinner. Mick treated us to a range of crackers with spiced pears, not quite what I expected but equally delicious.
Did I mention the flies? No fires were allowed at the campsite and the flies were becoming more and more annoying, so we all decided to call it an early night and retreat to the safety of our lagoons and tents. Everything leading up to this has been prepared, tomorrow it will become a reality when we go into the desert. The moment feels meaningful, as it represents the point of no return.
Stay tuned for Part 3!
You can check Full series Long Way to Wauchope Rally here (link).
Also check Endometriosis Australia and Gotcha4Life if you are interested.
