Images and text provided by Schiffer Books
About 4 years ago in 2020 I started developing an idea for a special book on modern wristwatches for Schiffer Publishing. This is the 7th book I have produced for them so they were more receptive to my ideas. In general, I like oversized industrial watches that are over 50mm in diameter. I feel these types of watches make a very bold statement and provide a bigger canvas for the Avant Garde watchmakers to work with. This works well for casual wear in theory but has serious drawbacks with formal wear. I found this firsthand when attending dinners and wearing dinner suits. All my watches ended up sticking out of my cuffs and looking a bit unsightly. After a few discussions with serious collectors it became clear that they had the same issues. So I got thinking about what kind of watch would be ideal for formal events.
Originally ‘Modern Dress Watches’ was the working title for my 9th book (7th with Schiffer) but was later changed to ‘Timeless classics‘. Before writing this book, my knowledge of wristwatches was very limited. Traditional watches with simple three-hand dials and modest case sizes had never appealed to me. They were generally conservative and lacking in sophistication. As I immersed myself in this project, I discovered a wealth of interesting designs from leading watchmakers. As well as precious metals such as gold and platinum, brands are now experimenting with more advanced materials. For example, titanium, sapphire crystal, carbon and even bronze have entered the market.
With ‘Timeless Classics’, I have tried my best to give a comprehensive overview of the notable modern wristwatches available. As well as featuring corporate brands (LVMH, Richemont, Swatch), I have also highlighted elegant pieces from lesser-known independents. However, the common thread is artistry, craftsmanship and exceptional mechanical genius. Each selection in this book demonstrates great design merit and deserves to be included in this edition. Here are my five highlights (with actual quotes from the book) that illustrate this point perfectly.
DC7 D. Candaux and Saturno
The Genesis DC7 is one of David Candaux’s recent exclusive made-to-order timepieces. With a 44mm case, the watch exudes a generous presence while still being suitable for formal wear. Perhaps the most interesting variation is the collaboration with renowned artist Mikki Saturno for ‘Only Watch’. This is a biennial charity auction of luxury timepieces created by the best watchmakers to raise awareness of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. What makes this unique 1/1 piece so extraordinary is the hand-painted dial inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man. Other features include exquisitely skeletonized hour/minute hands and a bi-planar 30° flying tourbillon indicator at 12 o’clock. Beneath the modern facade lies a finely crafted hand-wound movement.
Fabergé Compliquée Peacock Arte
It was impressive that the Compliquée Peacock Arte won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (Grand Prize for Fine Engineering) in 2015. This latest version is a collaboration with miniature expert André Martinez. The watch is tiny by today’s standards, with a modest 38mm rose gold case. These proportions will appeal to a wide audience, including the mainstream market. What makes this watch so stylish is the beautifully hand-painted dial depicting a female peacock alongside the iconic peacock. Other subtle features include a white mother-of-pearl rotating hour and minute track. Underneath the lavish facade is a Swiss-made mechanical movement. The calibre 6901 has 38 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
CHI GNS Dragon
The GNS Dragon is one of the most exclusive watches that GENUS has produced to date. If you are looking for a wristwatch with a modern style, this model is the ideal choice. In terms of size, this watch is elegantly proportioned in 18 Karat white gold, measuring 43mm x 18.8mm. What makes this watch so desirable is the exquisite skeleton dial. Hours are displayed on 12 satellite indices (peripheral and axial rotation) and minutes are relayed between two counter-rotating discs. There is also a beautiful stylized dragon in 18 Karat rose gold, meticulously hand-engraved. Powering the watch is a hand-wound mechanical movement manufactured in the brand’s Geneva workshop. The Calibre 160W-1.2 includes 26 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 VPH.
Patek Philippe 5303R Minute Repeater Tourbillon Watch
5303R Tourbillon Minute Chronograph is a stunning wristwatch that will appeal to serious collectors. Patek Philippe claims that this new grand complication is made for discerning watch connoisseurs. The watch is presented in a sumptuous 42mm 18-karat rose gold case with white gold inlays engraved with a leaf motif. What makes the watch so desirable is the majestic transparent skeleton dial with small seconds counter. Other fine details include black openworked hour/minute hands and printed numerals. At the heart of the watch is an exquisite hand-wound tourbillon movement. Calibre R TO 27 PS/252 comprises 28 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
Watch Starry Night Vine
The Starry Night Vine combines traditional Japanese art with Swiss fine watchmaking. The result is a stunning timepiece that is absolutely stunning. For this unique 1/1 timepiece, Kari Voutilainen collaborated with legendary Japanese lacquer artists Kitamura and Anita Porchet. What makes this timepiece so special is the exquisite dial, which depicts the sky above a vineyard. This miniature work of art requires a delicate lacquer technique that takes hundreds of hours to create. All this splendor is housed in a luxurious 39mm 18 Karat Palladium gold case. Powering the timepiece is an exquisite in-house mechanical winding movement. The movement contains 30 jewels and beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour.
