Zanesville, Ohio, is where I was born. It’s where I first learned to ride a motorcycle as a teenager, racing around the streets north of town. In high school, I rode my slightly larger bike down what was then called West Pike, aka U.S. Route 40. But after my military service, I traveled around on increasingly larger bikes, moving away from Zanesville and eventually settling in Columbus.
Over the years, I have returned to Zanesville many times, always for family reasons. I am overdue for a homecoming to refresh, reflect, and remember. And to explore.
Planning to stay a few days, I stayed at the Quality Inn and Suites (see sidebar below). Early shift staff Ausha and Linda made sure I was well fed from their breakfast buffet and kept well informed about the changes to the place I once called home.
In hilly Muskingum County, Zanesville is a hub, all roads leading to its center. Few of them resemble anything close to straight, winding, sometimes exhilarating, perfect for those of us who enjoy getting around on two or three wheels.
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Throughout its history, Zanesville has had many nicknames, most notably “The Y-Bridge City” due to the Y-shaped bridge that spans the confluence of the Licking and Muskingum rivers. In recent decades, due to its high clay content, it has also been called the “Pottery Capital of the World.”
From 1810 to 1812, Zanesville was the capital of Ohio and for decades before the Civil War it was a stop on the Underground Railroad.
Zanesville’s most famous citizen was Zane Grey, the famous writer of Western legends, most notably The Horsemen of the Purple SageJust east of town is the Zane Grey Highway and Museum, which honors both the author and the role of US 40 in the development of America.
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But Zanesville was named in honor of Ebenezer Zane, who received money and land grants from Congress in the late 1700s to pave a 200-mile trail through the Ohio wilderness, from Wheeling, then part of Virginia, to Maysville, Kentucky, a route that later became known as Zane’s Trace.
A generation later, the first federally funded road in American history was built to connect the Potomac and Ohio rivers. Called the National Road, it ran from Cumberland, Maryland, to Vandalia, Illinois, the state capital at the time, and through Zanesville. It eventually became U.S. Route 40.
While the current freeway often runs over the old National Road, there are places near Zanesville where the original two-lane freeway is still passable. On a scenic stretch east of town aptly named Brick Road, the red brick pavement still exists.
On the outskirts of New Concord, east of Zanesville, you’ll cross one of the highway’s earlier elements, now open to pedestrians only, the Fox Run S. Bridge. Built in 1828 and once a refuge for runaway slaves, the bridge is structurally remarkable. New Concord is also where you’ll find the childhood home of John Glenn, now a museum. The record-breaking US Marine Corps pilot became the first American to orbit the Earth, and later became a US senator. Mr. Glenn would insist that I mention his wife, Annie, whose life together is a big part of the museum.
Heading in the opposite direction and dating back to 1833 and at the start of the National Road is the Headley Inn, which provided accommodation for those building the highway. In the 1930s it was a “5-star” restaurant by Duncan Heinz. Today it is a bed and breakfast and winery.
But it’s not U.S. 40 that draws motorcyclists to Muskingum County. Most prominent of all the winding roads on the county map is the legendary “Triple Nickel,” State Route 555. Starting just south of Zanesville, the highway winds south for 62 miles to Little Hocking near the Ohio River. It’s a beautiful but challenging road, with many blind drops and tricky turns. Drive carefully, and you’ll be rewarded.
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In addition to Triple Nickel, there are other winding roads in Muskingum County worth exploring. For those looking for a quieter ride, I recommend pointing your front tires toward State Route 146. To the west, you’ll reach Dillon State Park, a great place for hiking, camping, fishing, and boating on and around a 1,500-acre lake.
If you follow SR-146 east, you’ll soon find yourself at The Wilds, a safari park that’s home to exotic animals like cheetahs, rhinos, giraffes, and zebras. The sprawling complex, built on strip-mined land, resembles the African savannah, and wildlife is viewed from open-air vehicles driven by experienced guides. The Wilds also offers adventure hiking, horseback riding, fishing, zip-lining, camping, and lodging.
Another great drive is on State Route 60 north to Dresden, where you can see the world’s largest basket from the famous Longaberger Baskets, or south along the east bank of the Muskingum River to Blue Rock State Park. This hilly, forested, 322-acre park offers hiking trails, boating, and camping.
As I drove along the local roads, I saw names like Moonlight Drive, Neptune Lane, and Sunflower Drive. When I came across Norwich Valley Road, it was humble, small. I had to take it. Early in the morning, it was the perfect place to be. I had the road to myself, not a nuisance in the world. I slowed down, enjoying every bit of what lay ahead. Soon, the road ended. I had a choice: turn left or turn right. If I turned left, my ride could continue. But I took the short road back to the main highway. Those few miles were the most beautiful of my ride. Finding them was why I rode.
Of all my stops, the most memorable was my visit to Stone Academy. Located in the Putnam Historic District, then a separate community just south of Zanesville, this impressive building was built in 1810 in an unsuccessful bid to be named the new state capitol. Over the years, it became a community meeting place, then the original site for something unheard of in the 1800s: a school for girls. In 1835, the building hosted the first meeting of the Ohio Anti-Slavery Society while also serving as a hideout on the Underground Railroad.
There’s a lot of history in this area, but today there’s a new kid on the block – make that a city block long. Walk up Sixth Street from the waterfront, and you can’t miss them. Stretching nearly the length of a football field, sculptor Alan Cottrill’s creations range from the mundane to the abstract.
Pick any notable place in the county, and you’ll find memories to share. But aside from the rivers, bridges, and parks, nothing says Zanesville better than Tom’s Ice Cream Bowl. USA Today once known as the Number One Ice Cream Shop in America.
For those looking for a bit of culture, there are several art museums in the downtown area, and further north is the highly regarded Zanesville Museum of Art, one of the best small-town art museums in the country.
Downtown welcomes people to First Friday Art Walks, and there is a summer concert series at Secrest Auditorium on Thursdays. During the warmer months, the city offers cruises on the Muskingum River on the Lorena Sternwheeler. In August, there is the Muskingum County Fair, where my wife, my brother Bill, his wife Peg, and I enjoyed an afternoon of demolition derby—a great time.
As my visit drew to a close, something caught my eye. At the east end of the Y Bridge, I saw something called the Y Bridge Cultural Arts Center. I came to town to explore new things, so why not stop and see what this place had to offer? Inside was a photography studio, and on the other side, outdoors, was a pottery classroom. An instructor was showing students how to prepare clay for throwing.
From another part of the building, a man appeared. I couldn’t remember him, but I knew he was someone from my past. I held out my hand, ready to shake his, telling him I was Ken Frick. He stopped suddenly, looked at me suspiciously, and asked, “Are you Bill and Flo’s son?” “Yes,” I said, and he said his name was Bob Grayson.
He was my parents’ next-door neighbor. My parents and Bob loved each other and were, for lack of a better term, “the best neighbors.” After rediscovering our hometown, Bob and I reminisced about a special part of my parents’ and his lives – a serendipitous way to connect the past and present.
A few days in Zanesville showed me that I could come home and be warmly welcomed. Every now and then, I would appreciate the charm and rhythm of the small town, the gentle sway, the passing of streets, places, and people. I am so lucky to have grown up in this special place, and today, to live close enough to visit and appreciate it as a place to spread my wings.
If you are looking for a friendly place, a mix of history and highways, and a great driving experience, maybe like you used to have when you were younger, give Zanesville a try. Come and see for yourself. You won’t be disappointed.
SIDEBAR: Quality Inn and Suites
The Quality accommodations and suites was the perfect place to stay when I was in Zanesville. The hotel is locally owned and the lobby wall features a collection of the gold and platinum awards the hotel has won. The lobby is bright and clean, with a large bouquet of fresh flowers on the check-in desk and the rooms are beautifully appointed with modern furniture and bedding. Located on Underwood Street, the hotel is a short walk to many restaurants and is within walking or driving distance of all of downtown and local museums. The hotel has a great breakfast buffet, an indoor pool, and very friendly staff – always someone asking how my day was and if there was anything they could do to make my stay more enjoyable.
RESOURCES
• Ohio Travel
• Zanesville/Muskingum County
• Quality accommodations and suites
• Zane Grey Highway and Museum
• Wild
• Blue Rock State Park
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Ken Frick’s First Story Driver appeared in 1988, with many others following. He calls central Ohio home, where he makes a living as a freelance commercial photographer. Visit KenFrick.photography to find Ken’s photo gallery and articles.
